Sweet or hot, stewed in goulash or rubbed on chicken, this versatile spice is a staple of the Jewish-American kitchen
By Leah Koenig for Tablet Magazine

“I’ll
have what she’s having.” Those five words, uttered during the infamous
orgasm-at-Katz’s-Deli scene in When Harry Met Sally, are arguably among
the most legendary to emerge from 1980s cinema. But my favorite line in
the movie comes from a different scene, when Harry (Billy Crystal), on a
stroll through the Metropolitan Museum of Art, coaxes Sally (Meg Ryan)
to repeat after him in a goofy, zayde-inflected accent: “Waiter, there
is too much pepper on my paprikash.” The line itself means very little,
spoken mostly as a means to a flirtatious end. But there is something so
utterly charming about Crystal’s impish delivery—something so
irresistibly New York, and undeniably Jewish—that I fall for Harry’s
shtick every time.
I was a child of the 1980s, and that scene
also first introduced me to chicken paprikash, or paprikas csirke in
Hungarian. Since there’s no Hungarian ancestry in my own family, the
country’s famous stewed chicken dish, which turns rosy under the heavy
influence of sweet paprika, never appeared on our table. Over the
ensuing decades, I have probably eaten the dish only half a dozen times.
Still, I feel an unspoken connection to chicken paprikash as a food of
my people. Like Harry, the dish—and a liberal hand with the paprika
shaker more broadly—has always seemed implicitly Jewish.
In
Nobody Knows the Truffles I’ve Seen, the memoir of the late New York
restaurateur George Lang, he recounts leaving his parents’ home at 19 to
report to a Nazi labor camp. Lang, who would eventually go on to direct
the Four Seasons and resurrect the famous Café des Artistes on New
York’s Upper West Side, maintained a deep connection to Hungarian food
throughout his life. Tellingly, he writes about the supplies he took
with him as he bid his childhood home goodbye: “Almost as important a
part of the backpack inventory as my books, was a well-wrapped slab of
paprika-coated ‘bacon,’ my mother’s rendition of the real thing … made
out of the sides of a well-fed goose.”
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