Video: The former Soviet republic’s Jewish history dates back millennia. This simple recipe is one of the community’s treasures.
By Joan Nathan for
Tablet Magazine
Ever
since I first visited Georgia (then part of the Soviet Union) in the
late 1980s, I have loved its cuisine, in particular a bright beef and
red pepper stew called Salyanka. So, I was delighted when, on a recent
trip to Israel with Mike Solomonov from Zahav Restaurant in
Philadelphia, we decided to eat at Racha, a Georgian restaurant in
downtown Jerusalem. As we entered the stone British Mandate office
building where the restaurant is located, right across from the original
office of the Jerusalem Post, I felt transported to a home in Racha,
the western province in Georgia, whose Jewish community dates back 2,600
years.
Today most of the Jews from Georgia have immigrated to
Israel. Two of them who came as children in the 1970s were Lily Ben
Shalom, who became a post office employee, and her brother Israel
Shahar, an electrical engineer. They had a dream of opening a
restaurant, so they saved their money and mementos of Racha. A few years
ago they opened this charming restaurant filled with family pictures on
the walls, white lace curtains on the windows, Georgian music, and
recipes passed down through generations in the kitchen. “We cook how
they cooked at home,” said Israel, the chef. “We don’t have any
cookbooks. The recipes come from the head and the hand.”
What
intrigued me as I bit into this delicious beef stew (recipe here) is
that, like many early Jewish recipes I have found around the world, the
beef, often a tough inexpensive cut, is first boiled in water until it
is almost tender and then layered with flavor from onions, spices, and
in this case bright red peppers, so easy to obtain today. After slowly
simmering for a few hours, you are rewarded with a melt-in-your-mouth,
silky stew. As they say in Georgia, ghmert`ma shegargos—bon appetit!
For more great Jewish cooking ideas, check out our
page.