From Moment Magazine
When
I was growing up on the Upper West Side in the 1930s, Broadway was
lined with “appetizing” stores, that—unlike delicatessens, which sold
smoked, cured and pickled meats—specialized in fish and dairy. These
were shops where we bought pickles, fresh sauerkraut, dried fruits and
candies as well as pickled, smoked and salted fish, and especially what
we called lox. At the time, this now-iconic Jewish food was skyrocketing
in popularity, and appetizing stores opened to meet the demand.
Most
Americans, even Jews, don’t know that lox was invented in America, not
Eastern Europe, explains Gil Marks, author of the Encyclopedia of Jewish
Food. “Salmon was not an Eastern European fish,” although it was
familiar to Scandinavians and Germans, including German Jews, he says.
While “bagels were Polish and cream cheese was Native American,” Jews
began to eat salmon en masse in early 20th-century America, where the
fish was plentiful.
European Jews had long smoked and salted
their fish, and they did the same with salmon when the transcontinental
railroad opened in 1869. Salmon from the Pacific Northwest was smoked
and shipped east in barrels layered with salt, creating a brine that
preserved it for months without refrigeration as it made its way
cross-country. The result was what is known today as belly lox—the
traditional authentic salty salmon cured in brine. It was affordable,
easy to keep and pareve, so it could be eaten with dairy.
The
word lox itself is evidence of the food’s non-Eastern European roots.
“The key to understanding the emergence of the term among Eastern
European Jews in America is that lox is a German word,” Marks says. Lox
is the Americanized spelling of the word for salmon in Yiddish (laks)
and in German (lachs), and also a derivative of the Swedish gravlax,
meaning cured salmon. Nova Scotia salmon, known as Nova, gained
popularity after the introduction of refrigerated cases; instead of
brining, which was no longer necessary, the fish could be lightly salted
and then smoked. Today, we still use the term Nova to refer to the more
expensive smoked salmon, although eventually, the word lox has come to
encompass salmon from both coasts and even northern Europe.
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