Artisanal gefilte fish. Slow-fermented bagels. Organic chopped liver. Sustainable schmaltz.
These
aren’t punch lines to a fresh crop of Jewish jokes. They are real foods
that recently arrived on New York City’s food scene. And they are proof
of a sudden and strong movement among young cooks, mostly
Jewish-Americans, to embrace and redeem the foods of their forebears.
That’s why, at this moment in 21st-century New York, the cutting edge of
cuisine is the beet-heavy, cabbage-friendly, herring-loving diet of
19th-century Jews in Eastern Europe.“It turns out that our ancestors knew what they were doing,” said Jeffrey Yoskowitz, an owner of Gefilteria, a company that makes unorthodox versions of gefilte fish and is branching out into slow-brined pickles and strudel. “The recipes and techniques are almost gone, and we have to capture the knowledge before it’s lost.”
The wave that began with Gefilteria, the Mile End delis, Shelsky’s of Brooklyn and Kutsher’s Tribeca has suddenly crested, with three places opening in the last month. Black Seed Bagels, a brick-oven bakery from the owners of Mile End, features toppings like horseradish cream cheese, beet-cured salmon and watermelon radishes. Baz Bagel & Restaurant, a cheerful Minsk-to-Miami venture, offers bread pudding made from babka, lemon-scented blintzes and hand-rolled pumpernickel-everything bagels. And Russ & Daughters Cafe serves the store’s legendary smoked fish and herring alongside remixed classics like whitefish chowder and halvah ice cream with salted caramel.
The
chefs and artisans behind these new enterprises are embracing the
quickly disappearing foods of their grandparents — blintzes and babka,
kasha and knishes — and jolting them back to strength with an infusion
of modern culinary ideas. Those foods became punch lines in the 1970s,
when the health consequences of a steady diet of meat, salt, bread and
cream became apparent, and when strong, smelly foods like garlic dill
pickles and herring with raw onion seemed dated, even embarrassing.
“Food rejection was part of the assimilation process,” said Devra Ferst,
editor of the food blog The Jew & The Carrot.Continue reading.
For more great Jewish food ideas, check out our
page.
I am willing to bet that there
is no authentic Middle Eastern kitchen that doesn’t stock tahini paste.
There’s just no way to go without it, especially if you’re having a
seafood meal. Tahini sauce — made from tahini paste mixed with water,
lemon juice, spices, garlic and sometimes, yogurt — has become a staple
even in a lot of Western homes. What can tahini dressing not get
drizzled on? At least all these make the cut: salads, roasted
vegetables, stuffed vegetables, rice or quinoa, falafel, shawerma,
seafood (and I’m probably missing lots more). The best thing about
tahini is the smooth, nutty but mild taste, followed by the fact that it
pairs well with pretty much any savory food, and certain sweet ones as
well (halawa, anyone?). If you can get your hands on tahini made with
organic sesame seeds, it’s a quite nutritious dressing to boot! 
While
it's a relative newcomer to the American kitchen, having only been
introduced to the States in the past 20 years, this ancient Andean seed
has been an important food in South America for over 6000 years. A
member of the goosefoot family, which is also the family of beets, swiss
chard, lamb's quarters, spinach, and amaranth, quinoa is not
technically a grain, but can be used as one in cooking.Year-round,
quinoa is perfect for vegans, those with celiac, and anyone looking for a
change from rice. It's gluten-free and contains all of the essential
amino acids, making it a complete protein.
I
didn’t grow up baking or even eating babka. Coffee cake, definitely.
Banana bread was a staple. But babka just wasn’t something around. When I
did finally taste babka as a teenager, I was like: where have you been
all my life!? Chocolatey, chewy and slightly gooey – it was a perfect
Shabbat morning breakfast treat with a cup of tea or coffee.
searches the globe for the most pure and intense flavors, and at La
Boîte, his New York City shop on an industrial strip, he combines them
into spice mixes that trigger the deepest and most mysterious places in
your brain.
I
always say that I loathe Passover, but there is a part of me that also
enjoys it. Or at the very least, appreciates its value. It’s a week
where we are challenged to be even more thoughtful about the food we eat
and where it comes from. And it’s almost like our own version of a
Spring cleanse. Bye-bye carbs, hello vegetables and creative use of
potatoes. I do feel lighter after a week without bread and pasta,
despite my bitching and moaning all the way through. And believe me, my
husband can vouch for my constant kvetching.