When was the last time you opened a tub of hummus and swooned? When was the
last time a restaurant put a plate of hummus in front of you, and you said, “Oh
my God.” ?
Most of the
hummus recipes you come across on web sites, in print, on YouTube—they’re just
wrong. Most of the hummus you buy in stores, or get served at restaurants—it’s
just okay.
As hummus
gets more and more popular, its manufacturers are aiming more and more for the
middle. They are substituting variety for quality. You can get mediocre hummus
in ten flavors (Avocado! Chipotle!), but try finding just one batch of perfect.
And perfect hummus
does exist. Lina’s in the Old City of Jerusalem. Naji’s in Abu Ghosh. Light,
almost fluffy, full of fresh flavor, creamy, warm. It’s not Middle East peanut
butter.
I eat hummus
every day. I make it about once a week. I’ve used recipes, I’ve created my own,
I’ve tweaked like Steve Jobs (z”l) on a bender. Below you’ll find my basic
recipe, which I’ve adapted from Erez Komaravsky’s, the Israeli chef and cooking
teacher. (A story on Erez appears in this month’s Saveur, along with the
recipe).
Whether you
use it or find your own let these rules be your guide.
1. Do not used canned
garbanzo beans. Ever. Take the canned beans in your cupboard and give them to a
food bank.
2. Fresh
ingredients are always better. Always. Fresh ground cumin seeds, fresh squeezed
lemon juice, fresh garlic. Never used bottled lemon juice, though a touch of
citric acid can help. Erez uses a mortar and pestle to grind his cumin. You’ll
taste the difference.
3. Use good quality olive oil. Lots of it. In the
hummus, as well as on top.
4. Don’t forget the pepper. I use Aleppo pepper, but
hot paprika or ground chili works too.
5. Use water. This is key. Reserve the water you
boiled the beans in. As you blend your hummus, add the water to achieve a creamy
consistency. Use a bit more than you think is correct, because after it sits
you’ll see the water is absorbed. If you’ve refrigerated your hummus, you can
refresh it by whisking in some warm water.
Continue reading and for recipe.