By Shannon Sarna for The Nosher
For
some time now I had in my head that I wanted to make a brownie that
involved halva, that delicious Middle Eastern sesame confection. I
researched. I pondered.
And then when I got a jar of the
brand-new Soomsoom Foods Tehina, I knew it was my sign to go for it.
What I loved about using this particular sesame paste was the super
smooth consistency, easy pour-ability and also the fantastic plastic
container. Much less messy or tricky to open than the metal cans!
I used this recipe for Nutella Cream Cheese Swirl Brownies from Lovin’ in the Oven as the inspiration for my recipe.
While
I chose to sprinkle the halva pieces on top of the brownies, you could
also mix them into the brownie batter itself, or make a double batch of
the brownies and do a layer of brownie filled with the tahini-cream
cheese filling. The possibilities are endless.
Want to make this
“semi-homemade” or pareve? Use some tried-and-true store-bought brownie
mix and mix as directed. Add 1/4 cup chocolate chips to batter, and
sprinkle 1/2 cup crumbled halva on top for another variation.
Continue reading.
Monday, December 30, 2013
Monday, December 23, 2013
Alfajores Cookies
Alfajores is a South American cookie. It is an elegant soft cookie which is sandwiched together with dulche de leche or vanilla custard and rolled in coconut.
Ingredients
1 cup/s Flour
1 cup/s Sugar
1 tablespoon/s Baking Powder
1 tablespoon/s Vanilla Sugar
300 gram/s Corn Starch
3 Eggs
200 gram/s Butter Or Margarine Melted
1 Dulche De Leche
1 Coconut
Preparation
Mix all ingredients in an electric mixer until well blended. Roll out a layer of the dough not too thinly nor thickly and cut out circles using the top of a glass. Bake at 350 for 10 minutes, until it looks just baked. Be very careful not to burn it. When cool, sandwich 2 cookies with a layer of dulche de leche or vanilla custard and then roll the sides in coconut or colored sprinkles.
From CulinaryKosher.com
Monday, December 16, 2013
Texas Cholent No 9
Cholent that has a Texas twang.
By Ari White on MyJewishLearning
Ingredients
1 lb Naval Pastrami
1 lb 2nd Cut Brisket or Flanken
1 lb Bullet of Salami
1-2 marrow bones
4 large potatoes, peeled and chopped
1 large sweet potato
5 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 cup mixed beans soaked in water overnight
2 onions
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon instant coffee
1/2 teaspoon chipotle powder or cayenne
1/2 cup barbecue sauce
1/2 cup ketchup
1/4 cup teriyaki sauce
1/2 lb kishke, cut into 3 slices
1 can Dr. Pepper
3/4 lb pearled barley, washed
water
Directions
Place your onions, quartered, marrow bones and brisket in a roasting pan and put under a broiler until both sides have good color, then place in crockpot.
Cut your potatoes into manageable pieces, usually 6-8 per potato and add to pot as well.
Add beans, remaining meats (whole), spices, ketchup, teriyaki, and BBQ sauce into the pot.
Pour as evenly as possible your washed pearled barley over everything else.
Add can of Dr Pepper.
Place the 3 slices of kishke in the center over your pile of barley.
Fill to the brim with water and cover with lid.
Set mode on high for six hours, then leave in warm mode overnight. Do not touch.
Before serving break up the large slabs of meat and allow to cool for about 10 minutes.
Monday, December 9, 2013
Unstuffed Cabbage
From The Shiksa in the Kitchen
Stuffed
cabbage is one of my favorite Ashkenazi dishes, but it takes FOREVER to
make. The leaves need to be boiled, then drained, then trimmed. Then
the meat filling needs to be mixed. Then the filling needs to be rolled
up into each cabbage leaf, and then it all needs to slowly cook. By the
time it’s all done, I’m not just hungry, I’m super duper hungry!I was on the phone kvetching about how long the process takes with my friend Beth, and she suggested I make Unstuffed Cabbage. A friend had served it to her once for dinner. She didn’t have the recipe, but she gave me the basic concept… make a bed of cabbage, make the filling into meatballs, cover it with sauce and cook. This idea was intriguing, so I went for it! Here’s what I came up with.
For the meatballs, I used a combination of ground beef and ground chicken. This allowed us to enjoy the flavor of the beef with a reduction in fat and calories. You can substitute ground beef only or ground chicken only if you prefer. If you use chicken, be sure to make it dark meat chicken, which will give you some extra flavor. Note that if you use ground chicken only, the meatballs will be quite sticky when you’re trying to form them, and you may need more matzo meal to help them hold together. Keep a wet towel handy!
Normally stuffed cabbage has rice in the filling, but I left it out of this dish because we’re watching our carb intake. It is very filling without the rice, making it a healthy comfort food option. It’s perfect for the colder months of the year, a warming and wonderful one pot meal. It’s also kosher for Passover– bonus!
Now, before you try this recipe, you should know that it’s not a Polish-style sweet and sour sauce (emphasis on the sweet). I prefer my stuffed cabbage on the savory side. If you’re looking for a more sweet and sour dish, try these: Sweet and Sour Meatballs. However, if you like savory meatballs, you will totally dig this dish! Guaranteed.
Update: I recently posted a recipe for traditional Stuffed Cabbage Leaves, click here to read.
Continue here for this recipe.
Monday, December 2, 2013
Zalabia
Hanukkah might be over, so this can be a great time to experiment with Jewish cooking customs from around the world.
This recipe has been adapted by Martha Stewart from "The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey From Samarkand to New York" by Claudia Roden.
FOR THE SUGAR SYRUP
5 cups sugar
2 1/4 cups water
1/2 lemon, juiced
1 tablespoon rose or orange-blossom water
FOR THE BATTER
4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 lemon, juiced
2 2/3 cups warm water
Light vegetable oil, for frying, plus more for coating spoons
DIRECTIONS
STEP 1
To make the syrup: Combine sugar, water, and lemon juice in a medium saucepan. Place over medium heat, and simmer until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Add rose or orange-blossom water, and simmer for a few seconds longer. Remove from heat, and let cool. Cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.
STEP 2
To make the batter: Whisk to combine flour, salt, and yeast in a large bowl. Gradually stir in water, beating vigorously until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place for at least 1 1/4 hours. Uncover, and beat once more. Cover, and let rise again, about 30 minutes.
STEP 3
Heat 2 inches of oil in a deep saucepan over medium-high heat until the oil reaches 375 degrees. Dip two tablespoons in a small bowl of oil to coat. Working in batches, spoon about a tablespoon of batter into hot oil. Fry, turning occasionally, until puffed, crisp, and golden. Reduce the heat a little so that the fritters are thoroughly cooked without getting too brown. The light batter produces irregular rather than round fritters.
STEP 4
Using a slotted spoon, remove fritters, and transfer to a paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain. Dip fritters in the cold syrup for a few seconds to coat and soak up some syrup. These are best served hot, but they may also be served at room temperature.
Jews From Cochin Bring Their Unique Indian Cuisine to Israeli Diners
On a moshav in southern Israel, the women behind Matamey Cochin keep alive the flavors of an ancient Jewish community
By Dana Kessler for Tablet Magazine
One of Israel’s well-known traditions is “the great trip to the East” that young adults take after completing their army service—whether it’s to “find themselves” in ashrams, lie on the beach in Goa, or smoke weed all day far from their parents’ observing eyes. This tradition is one of the reasons Israelis think they know all about India (the other being the fact that Israelis think they know all about everything). But many Israelis don’t know that Jews have a history in India that dates back to antiquity.
While there are different groups of Jews in India, living in different areas, the Cochin Jews of South India are the oldest, dating back to biblical times. These Jews, whom the Hindu Raja granted their own area in the southern Indian port city of Cochin (known today as Kochi) during the Middle Ages, lived peacefully in what is now part of the state of Kerala. Even though they never suffered persecution, most of them immigrated to Israel in the 1950s and early ’60s. The majority settled in moshavim around the country, while some moved to various cities. In the 1960s, there were between 2,000 and 3,000 Cochin Jews in Israel. Nowadays, there are very few Jews left in Cochin, while the community in Israel, which grew due to intermarriages, totals between 7,000 and 8,000 members.
One of the moshavim where most Cochin Israelis are situated is Nevatim, in the south of Israel. Nevatim used to be an agricultural settlement, but since the local agriculture died down in the 1980s, the moshav has been striving to revive its economy by turning it into a tourist attraction, based on the heritage of its Cochin Jews. Tourists, from Israel and abroad, visit Nevatim for its beautiful synagogue, cultural center, and museum, as well as for the traditional food cooked and served by the women of Matamey Cochin.
Matamey Cochin (“Cochin delicacies”) is a business operated by eight local women between the ages of 55 and 65 who host Cochin-style meals in their homes or in the local hospitality tent, for groups who make reservations. When the idea of hosting traditional meals in the moshav came up, the women of Nevatim turned to Smadar Kaplinsky, who develops small businesses for women in Israel. She helped them get their enterprise off the ground four years ago this month, and, with the assistance of Partnership 2000 and the Jewish Agency, the women of Nevatim started holding cooking workshops for Taglit-Birthright Israel and other youth groups, as well as hosting meals for visitors. In addition to providing traditional meals for groups from the United States and Canada a few times a year, they cater mainly to groups from Israel.
Continue reading.
Monday, November 18, 2013
Thanksgivukkah Watch: Pumpkin Custard Kugel
By Scott Kearnan for Zagat Boston
This is getting big - in Boston, anyway. Last week we took a look at Thanksgivukkah, November's unusual calendar alignment of Thanksgiving and Hanukkah, via Kitchen Kibitz: a new Jewish cuisine pop-up that's throwing an early celebration on November 10. But we've just scratched the surface of what's turning into quite a craze. Not only has Boston's Combined Jewish Philanthropies launched an entire website dedicated to the day, but it includes a new (hilarious) video with Mayor Menino promising that November 28 will be proclaimed "Thanksgivukkah Day" in Boston. As they say in the comments section: First!
Naturally, area restaurants are getting in on the action with Thanksgivukkah-apropos dishes. Among them is the pumpkin custard kugel chef Marjorie Druker is serving at the Modern Rotisserie annex of her New England Soup Factory in Newton. Druker shared the recipe for the dish, so at-home chefs can start celebrating early.
Pumpkin Custard Kugel
Ingredients:
1 pound of cooked wide egg noodles (slightly undercook noodles by 2 minutes)
1 stick of butter
16 oz. of cream cheese
1 pint of sour cream
1 15-oz. can of pumpkin purée
8 extra-large or jumbo eggs
1 3/4 cups of sugar
1 tablespoon of pure vanilla extract
1 quart of whole milk
1/2 cup molasses
1 teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon allspice
For topping:
3/4 cup of chopped pecans
1 tablespoon of cinnamon
2 tablespoons sugar
Directions:
In a mixing bowl whip together the butter and cream cheese. Add the sour cream, pumpkin purée and sugar, and mix again. Add the eggs one at a time, beating a little after each one. Add the milk, salt, molasses, nutmeg, ground cloves and allspice, and mix to incorporate the custard.
Place the cooked noodles in a large mixing bowl. Pour the custard over the noodles and mix well. Pour into a large baking dish that has been generously buttered. Place this dish in an even larger roasting pan and add water so that you create a water bath for the pudding. Add enough water so that it comes halfway up to the pan of kugel.
Sprinkle with the pecan and cinnamon topping and place in a 350 degree pre-heated oven for one hour uncovered. Remove from the oven and let rest a day before serving. Cut into pieces and warm up in a 350 degree oven for 15-20 minutes before serving.
This is getting big - in Boston, anyway. Last week we took a look at Thanksgivukkah, November's unusual calendar alignment of Thanksgiving and Hanukkah, via Kitchen Kibitz: a new Jewish cuisine pop-up that's throwing an early celebration on November 10. But we've just scratched the surface of what's turning into quite a craze. Not only has Boston's Combined Jewish Philanthropies launched an entire website dedicated to the day, but it includes a new (hilarious) video with Mayor Menino promising that November 28 will be proclaimed "Thanksgivukkah Day" in Boston. As they say in the comments section: First!
Naturally, area restaurants are getting in on the action with Thanksgivukkah-apropos dishes. Among them is the pumpkin custard kugel chef Marjorie Druker is serving at the Modern Rotisserie annex of her New England Soup Factory in Newton. Druker shared the recipe for the dish, so at-home chefs can start celebrating early.
Pumpkin Custard Kugel
Ingredients:
1 pound of cooked wide egg noodles (slightly undercook noodles by 2 minutes)
1 stick of butter
16 oz. of cream cheese
1 pint of sour cream
1 15-oz. can of pumpkin purée
8 extra-large or jumbo eggs
1 3/4 cups of sugar
1 tablespoon of pure vanilla extract
1 quart of whole milk
1/2 cup molasses
1 teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon allspice
For topping:
3/4 cup of chopped pecans
1 tablespoon of cinnamon
2 tablespoons sugar
Directions:
In a mixing bowl whip together the butter and cream cheese. Add the sour cream, pumpkin purée and sugar, and mix again. Add the eggs one at a time, beating a little after each one. Add the milk, salt, molasses, nutmeg, ground cloves and allspice, and mix to incorporate the custard.
Place the cooked noodles in a large mixing bowl. Pour the custard over the noodles and mix well. Pour into a large baking dish that has been generously buttered. Place this dish in an even larger roasting pan and add water so that you create a water bath for the pudding. Add enough water so that it comes halfway up to the pan of kugel.
Sprinkle with the pecan and cinnamon topping and place in a 350 degree pre-heated oven for one hour uncovered. Remove from the oven and let rest a day before serving. Cut into pieces and warm up in a 350 degree oven for 15-20 minutes before serving.
Monday, November 11, 2013
Thanksgiving with a side of Hanukkah: recipes for a once-in-a-lifetime event
by Vered Guttman for Haaretz
The delicious combinations are endless between the fall flavors of Thanksgiving and the extravagance of Hanukkah, which begin this year on the same day.
I can still remember the first time I heard about Thanksgivukkah. Well, it happened only three weeks ago. Thanksgiving and Hanukkah, the most American of holidays and the most extravagant of Jewish holidays, coincide to make the once-in-a-lifetime mother of all holidays. What a concept! Little did I know that I would then hear about it again and again, at least three times a day, every day, from excited Jews and their media outlets.
Oy, the pressure. If this is indeed a once-in-a-lifetime, or for accuracy’s sake, a once-in-a-77,000-years experience, the meal too should be the best one ever made. And it should combine the fall flavors of Thanksgiving - pumpkins, green beans, turkey and pies, with those of Hanukkah (meaning, fry everything).
The combinations are endless: Latkes topped with cranberry sauce; yam latkes; brussels sprouts latkes; soufganiya stuffed with turkey and cranberry sauce; gelt pie; turkey in Manischewitz brine, stuffed with gefilte fish and roasted carrots and served with chrein.
My head is spinning!
Trying to make more sense of this unnatural situation, I’ll give a few more reasonable recipes in the upcoming weeks before Thanksgivukkah. This week, I’ll focus on side dishes, my favorite part of Thanksgiving. And this time with a Hanukkah twist: Brussels sprouts mini soufganiyiot, roasted tzimmes, and kasha with smoked turkey and butternut squash in bourbon.
Continue here for recipe.
The delicious combinations are endless between the fall flavors of Thanksgiving and the extravagance of Hanukkah, which begin this year on the same day.
I can still remember the first time I heard about Thanksgivukkah. Well, it happened only three weeks ago. Thanksgiving and Hanukkah, the most American of holidays and the most extravagant of Jewish holidays, coincide to make the once-in-a-lifetime mother of all holidays. What a concept! Little did I know that I would then hear about it again and again, at least three times a day, every day, from excited Jews and their media outlets.
Oy, the pressure. If this is indeed a once-in-a-lifetime, or for accuracy’s sake, a once-in-a-77,000-years experience, the meal too should be the best one ever made. And it should combine the fall flavors of Thanksgiving - pumpkins, green beans, turkey and pies, with those of Hanukkah (meaning, fry everything).
The combinations are endless: Latkes topped with cranberry sauce; yam latkes; brussels sprouts latkes; soufganiya stuffed with turkey and cranberry sauce; gelt pie; turkey in Manischewitz brine, stuffed with gefilte fish and roasted carrots and served with chrein.
My head is spinning!
Trying to make more sense of this unnatural situation, I’ll give a few more reasonable recipes in the upcoming weeks before Thanksgivukkah. This week, I’ll focus on side dishes, my favorite part of Thanksgiving. And this time with a Hanukkah twist: Brussels sprouts mini soufganiyiot, roasted tzimmes, and kasha with smoked turkey and butternut squash in bourbon.
Continue here for recipe.
Monday, November 4, 2013
Israeli Chefs Bring a New Spin on Middle Eastern Food to America
Shakshuka is on menus all over the country, and za’atar appears in Rachael Ray’s recipes. Can America love Israeli cuisine more?
By Leah Koenig for Tablet Magazine
Einat Admony is gearing up for a busy autumn. The Tel Aviv native and longtime New York-based chef already runs two bustling eateries: Taïm, a celebrated Greenwich Village falafel restaurant with a partner food truck, and a Middle Eastern trattoria in SoHo called Balaboosta, which does wonderful things like top-grilled lamb chops with Persian lime sauce, and nestle-fried olives in a pool of creamy labneh.
But next month, Admony’s life will kick into warp speed. That’s when her cookbook, also called Balaboosta, drops—a vibrant and inviting collection of personal stories and recipes designed, as the book puts it, “to feed people you love.” Shortly after that, Admony will add a new restaurant to her mini-empire, Bar Bolonat in Greenwich Village. As is the case with Taïm and Balaboosta, its menu will center around the Israeli flavors that Admony has said “are my comfort zone, my heart and core.” But it will be the most playful of the three restaurants, deconstructing familiar Israeli flavors and liberally incorporating ingredients from other ethnic cuisines. Case in point: a dessert of tahini cookies that she will serve alongside green-tea gelato. “I want to put the gelato in those gold-rimmed Moroccan tea glasses, which will look beautiful without being gimmicky,” she said.
Admony is an established champion of “new Israeli cuisine,” a term that refers to Israel’s emerging food scene and vigorous recent embracing of its many overlapping food cultures. And she is far from alone. Over the last decade, a new crop of wandering Israeli chefs and food purveyors has begun to make a significant mark on the way Americans cook and eat. The vision of Israeli food that they are bringing moves far beyond falafel or the Sabra brand hummus that sell like gangbusters across the country; it is fine dining—elevated and innovative.
Consider the following: Admony’s first restaurant, Taïm, opened in 2005. Three years later, the Israeli-born, Pittsburgh-raised chef Michael Solomonov launched his restaurant Zahav in the heart of Philadelphia. Within months, his inspiring take on new Israeli cuisine—dishes like fried haloumi cheese with carrots and pine nuts, grilled ground lamb served with pickled ramps, and halvah mousse with chickpea praline—was being lauded on must-eat lists in Philadelphia and beyond.
Continue reading.
Monday, October 28, 2013
Jamie Geller, the ‘Kosher Rachael Ray,’ Dresses Up Simple Family Meals
‘I still don’t like to cook. I love to eat. I love to watch my children eat,’ she says in her new cookbook, ‘Joy of Kosher.’
By Lucy Cohen Blatter for TabletJamie Geller has been described as the “kosher Rachael Ray” because of her propensity for crafting approachable, get-me-out-of-the-kitchen-quickly recipes. But the similarities don’t end there: Like the woman who made 30-minute meals a major brand, Geller has created a large media presence, albeit in the kosher world. She founded and is chief creative officer of Kosher Media Network, which includes JoyofKosher.com and Joy of Kosher With Jamie Geller magazine (which merged with Bitayavon last year), as well as JDeal and JBlasts—two Jewish-centric sites her company acquired—plus JGives, BuyIsraelWeek, and MetroImma. She has sold close to 60,000 cookbooks and counts 30,000 subscribers to the magazine.
But her latest endeavor, a cookbook tiled Joy of Kosher: Fast, Fresh Family Recipes being published this month, is a crossover into the more mainstream world of celebrity chefdom. Geller’s first two books—Quick and Kosher: Recipes From the Bride Who Knew Nothing and Quick and Kosher: Meals in Minutes—were put out by the Jewish publisher Feldheim; the new book is published by HarperCollins imprint William Morrow. “Last time around, my mother-in-law and I were picking out fonts,” said Geller. “This time there’s a lot more pressure to do something new and to do something on-trend.”
Staying on trend is increasingly important in the kosher cooking world. “Just like everyone else, people in Jewish communities have become foodies,” said Geller. “Kosher websites and blogs abound, and they showcase kosher Vietnamese, Mexican, Thai, and all different kinds of food. At fancy food shows you can see that many ethnic products want kosher certification because they know kosher cooks are using all of them.”
The new cookbook is a continuation of Geller’s ever-expanding Joy of Kosher brand, although she says it also continues in the style of Quick and Kosher before it: “Cooking quick and kosher is at the core of my being. I haven’t abandoned the essence of that brand.”
Continue reading.
Monday, October 21, 2013
Jewish Coffee Cake
No coffee required.
By Tamar Fox for MyJewishLearningAshkenazic coffee cake, most often made with sour cream, is a dish with a history going back to 17th century Eastern Europe. Recipes for this pastry have changed over time. Though the original Jewish coffee cakes called for coffee as one of the main ingredients, today most such cakes are perfect partners for a hot cop of joe, but are totally caffeine-free.
In contemporary Jewish homes coffee cake is often served for breakfast on Shabbat and holidays, and at the break fast table after Yom Kippur and Tisha B'Av. When enjoying coffee cake after Shabbat, some families like to sprinkle the fragrant spices used in havdalah on top of the cake. Sweet, and containing nuts, cinnamon, and/or chocolate, a slice of coffee cake is one of the best ways to make a meal special.
This recipe comes from my mother, who liked to make coffee cake for celebratory brunches. The filling can be adapted for the crowd. If you're hosting some chocolate-lovers, try the chocolate filling. If your family gobbles up raisin challah, try the raisin-nut filling. The simple combination of pecans and walnuts in the nut filling is surprisingly elegant. Any way you go, you're bound to end up with a table full of smiles and crumbs.
Continue reading.
Monday, October 14, 2013
Sauteed Cabbage, Perfect Fall Recipe
Sauteed Cabbage - Serves 6
It's so good you can't stop eating it. So simple you can't believe it!1 small head of white cabbage, including outer green leaves (2 1/2 pounds)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Fleur de sel to taste (optional)
Cut the cabbage in half and, with the cut-side down, slice it as thinly as possible around the core, as though you were making coleslaw. Discard the core.
Melt the butter in a large sauté pan or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the cabbage, kosher salt, and pepper and sauté for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is tender and begins to brown. Finish with another sprinkling of kosher salt or fleur de sel. Serve hot.
Copyright 2001, Barefoot Contessa Parties! by Ina Garten, Clarkson Potter/Publishers, All Rights Reserved
Monday, October 7, 2013
Pumpkin Challah
Perfect for a Fall Shabbat.
By Leah Koenig for MyJewishLearningI have never met a homemade challah I didn't like. There is something undeniably cozy and inviting about warm, fresh bread on the Shabbat table. Few other tastes can rival this.
On the other hand, challah's ubiquitous appeal means that it's hard to find one loaf that stands out from the crowd. Enter: pumpkin challah.
With a heady mix of pureed winter squash, cinnamon, and cardamom braided into deep, strawberry-blond loaves, pumpkin challah is at once exotic and familiar to my Ashkenazic taste buds. A rare find, indeed.
In Maggie Glezer's indispensable baking book The Blessing of Bread she writes that pumpkin challah--a.k.a. pan de calabaza--is a Sephardic specialty imbued with deep meaning. Like other foods made with pumpkin, it represents the hope that God will protect the Jewish people just as the pumpkin's thick shell protects the flesh inside.
Sephardic Jews traditionally serve this bread during Rosh Hashanah, when eating auspicious, symbolic foods is especially popular. Still, it is equally delicious served on any cold autumn or winter Shabbat when the added heartiness and kick of spice can be fully appreciated. Needless to say, the leftovers make a spectacular base for challah French toast. Continue reading for recipe.
Monday, September 30, 2013
Black Bean Hummus
A new twist on a Middle Eastern staple.
By Leah Koenig for MyJewishLearning
While chickpeas--with their tiny stature and unassuming flavor--maintain a humble persona, their significance throughout history commands serious respect. One of the earliest plants to be domesticated for human use, chickpeas were first planted along with wheat, barley, lentils, and other ancient grains and legumes in the Fertile Crescent some 10-12,000 years ago. Fittingly, chickpeas have long been a staple of Middle Eastern cuisine, found in everything from stews and savory pies to fritters to spreads
Hummus, which literally means "chickpeas" in Arabic, is arguably the most popular recipe in the chickpea canon. The exact origins of this spread of smashed chickpeas softened with tahini and olive oil are unknown, but likely stretch back for centuries. Hummus continues to be a favorite throughout the Middle East, including Israel where, as Janna Gur writes in The New Book of Israeli Food, "Israelis hold hummus in such high regard that it is rarely made at home." Instead, she writes, residents flock like pilgrims to their favorite hummusia (hummus joint) for plates of warm hummus topped with fava beans or a hardboiled egg and accompanied by plates of pickles and fluffy stacks of pita.
Vegetarians and health food enthusiasts like Mollie Katzen first helped to introduce the protein-packed spread to the American palate in the 1960s and 1970s. Today it is nearly ubiquitous: Sabra is becoming a household-recognized brand, hummus and pita platters show up next to mozzarella sticks and nachos on diner menus, and the dip has become a familiar-enough cultural reference to carry scenes in major motion pictures (i.e. the infamous "hummus scene" in Don't Mess with the Zohan).
The New York Times published an article discussing hummus' growing popularity in the United States, especially flavored versions that add savory mix-ins like sun-dried tomatoes, roasted red peppers, and avocado. MyJewishLearning.com's blog Mixed Multitudes mentioned a New Hampshire-based company that launched a line of dessert hummus that includes flavors like caramel apple, chocolate mousse, and pumpkin pie. The three recipes below do not take hummus innovation to such extremes, but do offer some unexpected twists on the classic.
Of course, purists can make their own traditional hummus by following this recipe.
This black bean based-riff on traditional chickpea hummus is packed with serious flavor thanks to the fresh cilantro and ground spices.
Continue reading.
Monday, September 23, 2013
Easy Roasted Red Pepper Soup
Sukkot and the Seasonal Shift
It happens like clockwork. Here in Connecticut, Rosh Hashanah is generally warm and sunny and by Yom Kippur the nights are downright chilly.
Sukkot comes just five days after and the foliage is suddenly tinged with vibrant oranges and happy yellows of Autumn. The festival of Sukkot requires us to shift our moods suddenly also, from the days of contemplation and solemnity to a spirit of joyful thanksgiving and celebration. Our menus quickly transition to warming foods and for many of us, that means soup.
In order to not overwhelm the cook with complicated recipes as we head into yet, another holiday, I share this super easy recipe by one of my blogging gal pals, Hannah Kaminsky. Hannah is a brilliantly accomplished cook, author and photographer. I am awed by her ambition and accomplishments, especially considering that she is only 22 years old!
I interviewed her recently, after the release of her book Vegan Desserts Sumptuous Sweets for Every Season. It has become my indispensable guide to non-dairy and vegan desserts. Her recipes are both easy and convenient for kosher cooks who require non-dairy soups, sides and desserts to accompany meat meals. Thanks for sharing , Hannah.
Continue reading.
Monday, September 16, 2013
Bronx Borscht - Perfect for the Sukkah
From the old world to the new, nothing 'beets' this classic soup
By Marion Jacobson for Kveller
Usually, the sight of a root vegetable other than potatoes sends my kids running and screaming from the kitchen. But the beet claims a special place in our house whenever I make borscht.
Beets were a cheap commodity in Eastern Europe, so they caught on like wildfire in poor communities, both Jewish and Polish. Borscht (or borsch) is the generic name for a soup of Ukrainian origin that appears in hot and cold variations, but always with beets. Cold borscht is a true summertime soup, and I offer a thick, hearty version more like a Jewish take on gazpacho. Whatever kind of borscht you make, don't leave out the dill--a staple of Polish and Eastern Europe cooking.
A Generational Dish
My borscht obsession started with my first taste of my mother's soup, which her immigrant mother cooked and chilled every summer for her family of seven in a South Bronx tenement. Grandma Lena made a special Passover Borscht with russel (brine in Yiddish and Russian). She'd put the beets in wooden barrels with vinegar and water and let them sit for three to four weeks. Every few days, she'd skim off the fermented crust that would form at the top. My mother recalls this version being especially popular with some of their more (ahem) intemperate neighbors. But Grandma wasn't trying to get anyone drunk--she was just trying to get borscht to keep longer. Fermented borscht could keep for weeks or even months without refrigeration.
My grandmother made borscht in a pressure cooker, the old jiggle-top kind. If a food particle clogged the vent, or if she got distracted and forgot to turn down the heat (not an infrequent occurrence in a large household) the regulator blew off, taking the contents of the pot with it. The pink splotches on the ceiling are one of my mother's most vivid memories of her childhood kitchen.
Continue reading.
Monday, September 9, 2013
Has the kosher cheeseburger arrived?
By Talia Lavin for JTA
NEW YORK (JTA) — When the world’s first lab-grown burger was introduced and taste-tested on Monday, the event seemed full of promise for environmentalists, animal lovers and vegetarians.Another group that had good reason to be excited? Kosher consumers.
The burger was created by harvesting stem cells from a portion of cow shoulder muscle that were multiplied in petri dishes to form tiny strips of muscle fiber. About 20,000 of the strips were needed to create the five-ounce burger, which was financed partially by Google founder Sergey Brin and unveiled by Mark Post of Maastricht University in the Netherlands.
PETA hailed the event as a “first step” toward humanely producing meat products. A University of Amsterdam study shows that lab-grown meat could significantly reduce the environmental impact of beef production.
For kosher-observant Jews, the “cultured” burgers could open the door to radical dietary changes — namely, the birth of the kosher cheeseburger.
That’s because meat produced through this process could be considered parve – neither meat nor dairy — according to Rabbi Menachem Genack, CEO of the Orthodox Union’s kosher division. Thus under traditional Jewish law, the burger could be paired with dairy products.
Several key conditions would have to be met to create kosher, parve cultured beef. The tissue samples would have to come from an animal that had been slaughtered according to kosher rules, not from a biopsy from a live animal, Genack said.
The principle underlying this theory is much like the status of gelatin in Jewish law: Though it is derived from an animal, it is not meat (the OU certifies some bovine-derived gelatin as parve).
Genack noted another source for viewing cultured meat as parve: a 19th century Vilna-born scholar known as the Heshek Shlomo wrote that the meat of an animal conjured up in a magical incantation could be considered parve. It may not be too much of a stretch, then, to apply the same logic to modern genetic wizardry.
But kosher chefs aren’t heating up the parve griddles just yet.
Continue reading.
Monday, September 2, 2013
Best Rosh Hashanah Recipes from the LA Times
Would you like to try something decidedly different this holiday?
How about Baked pumpkin jam with cinnamon and ginger, served with
couscous, Cilantro tomato soup with Syrian meatballs, Artichoke hearts
with harissa salad, or Ejjeh b'kerrateh/Leek fritters? Be a little
daring and add something not necessarily in your family's tradition this
year. And if your family is Sephardic, go for the Ashkenazic matzah
balls!
Monday, August 26, 2013
Roasted Chicken for the Holidays, Shabbat, Anytime
A perennial Friday night favorite
By Itta Werdiger-Roth for MyJewishLearning.com
In theory we would love to imagine and create new menus with fresh ingredients and ideas every week for Shabbat. But the fact is, it's really not so easy! Shabbat comes around exactly once a week, never soon enough, but always sooner than expected. This versatile recipe for roast chicken is the sort of meal you can either throw together in a pinch or re-invent with every chicken you make.
This version is autumnal, but you can substitute in any vegetables and spices that you like. Zucchini or other summer squash, peppers, any winter squash, mushrooms, celery, carrots, even brussels sprouts are all good options depending on what you have on hand and what's in season. And feel free to experiment with herbs, either dry or fresh. The only mandatory item is the chicken.
Chicken is often the center of the Shabbat dinner, and with good reason. For generations Jews have been making variations of this recipe to serve to their families on Friday nights. Both simple and adaptable, this recipe is a staple in Jewish kitchens around the world.
Do yourself a favor--always keep a chicken in the freezer. If your pantry, fridge, and cupboards are basically bare, you can still make a whole meal out of that chicken.
Many people prefer their chicken skinned and filleted. I prefer to use a whole chicken. This way, you can fill its cavity with herbs and other good stuff to enhance the flavor. Buying a whole chicken is also way more economical. If you want to lower your fat intake, take off the skin, by all means. But please, wait until the chook is cooked!
Continue reading for recipe.
Monday, August 19, 2013
Slow Cooker Honey Barbecue Brisket
From the Shiksa in the Kitchen
The
scent of barbecue brings a flood of memories rushing back to me… memories of
family and friends, some now departed, and the fun we had at my great uncle’s
cattle ranch in the rolling hills of San Luis Obispo, CA. I have farmers on both
sides of my family, and my childhood was full of Santa Maria-style barbecue
cookouts. Uncle Dennis and his friends would stand over a huge iron oak-filled
fire pit, slowly smoking the meat till it was tender and perfectly done. Aunt
Pauline would make vats of ranch beans and salad. She’d spread French bread with
copious amounts of garlic butter. Just before the meal, Uncle Dennis would throw
the bread onto the fire pit till it soaked up the smoky oak flavor and grill
marks were seared in. With the scent of garlic bread and barbecue in the air,
we’d dig into the feast.
I miss those sunny afternoons. I miss sitting with my family and chatting about this, that and the other thing. I miss my Aunt Pauline and her sister, my Grandma Carolyn. What a blessing to grow up in a small town, surrounded by a loving family. Simple pleasures. Now that I live in the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles, I appreciate it all the more.
While I grew up adoring those barbecue cookouts, my diet has changed quite a bit over the years. Now I eat flexitarian style, meaning the majority of my nutrition comes from vegetables, fruits, whole grains and legumes. That said, once in a while my family craves meat. Every month or two we indulge in some organic steak or brisket. Sadly I don’t have a giant iron oak-filled fire pit in my back yard, so this has become one of my go-to recipes for preparing barbecue-style beef brisket. The slow cooker keeps the meat from drying out, and it requires very little effort… just set it up in the morning and let it slowly cook all day long. The meat cooks up meltingly tender. The longer you cook it, the more it takes on the consistency of tender chipped beef, which I love. The idea originally came from a friend who recommended that I slow cook a brisket smothered in barbecue sauce. Over time, I’ve added some seasonings to the method to enhance the flavor. This recipe has been perfected over time; it was one of the first recipes I ever posted on my blog, but I am resharing it today because the modifications take it from good to awesome. It couldn’t be easier. Stick it in the slow cooker in the morning, and by the time you get home you’ll be minutes away from a hearty and satisfying meal. Serve with mashed potatoes or a baked potato and a salad on the side. You can also pile the beef onto hamburger buns and make barbecue beef sandwiches.
Continue reading.
I miss those sunny afternoons. I miss sitting with my family and chatting about this, that and the other thing. I miss my Aunt Pauline and her sister, my Grandma Carolyn. What a blessing to grow up in a small town, surrounded by a loving family. Simple pleasures. Now that I live in the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles, I appreciate it all the more.
While I grew up adoring those barbecue cookouts, my diet has changed quite a bit over the years. Now I eat flexitarian style, meaning the majority of my nutrition comes from vegetables, fruits, whole grains and legumes. That said, once in a while my family craves meat. Every month or two we indulge in some organic steak or brisket. Sadly I don’t have a giant iron oak-filled fire pit in my back yard, so this has become one of my go-to recipes for preparing barbecue-style beef brisket. The slow cooker keeps the meat from drying out, and it requires very little effort… just set it up in the morning and let it slowly cook all day long. The meat cooks up meltingly tender. The longer you cook it, the more it takes on the consistency of tender chipped beef, which I love. The idea originally came from a friend who recommended that I slow cook a brisket smothered in barbecue sauce. Over time, I’ve added some seasonings to the method to enhance the flavor. This recipe has been perfected over time; it was one of the first recipes I ever posted on my blog, but I am resharing it today because the modifications take it from good to awesome. It couldn’t be easier. Stick it in the slow cooker in the morning, and by the time you get home you’ll be minutes away from a hearty and satisfying meal. Serve with mashed potatoes or a baked potato and a salad on the side. You can also pile the beef onto hamburger buns and make barbecue beef sandwiches.
Continue reading.
Monday, August 12, 2013
Israeli Hummus Recipe
You've seen it in the stores. Now you can make it at home.
By Joan Nathan
Reprinted with permission from The Foods of Israel Today (Knopf).I have been making hummus for years and have concluded that despite the temptation to use canned chickpeas, the flavor is much better when it is made with dried chickpeas found at Middle Eastern or Indian food stores.
First I soak a large quantity overnight, cook some, and then drain and freeze the rest in two-cup batches in plastic bags.
Whenever I need them for hummus, falafel, or for the many chickpea soups and stews in this book, I just take them out of the freezer. When substituting canned beans, figure that one cup of raw chickpeas equals two cups of cooked or canned. Some old-time cooks in the Middle East either peel cooked chickpeas or pass them through a food mill before using them. I find there is no need for this laborious extra step. I add to my hummus a little bit of cumin, which blends beautifully with the garlic and lemony flavor.
Continue reading for recipe.
Whenever I need them for hummus, falafel, or for the many chickpea soups and stews in this book, I just take them out of the freezer. When substituting canned beans, figure that one cup of raw chickpeas equals two cups of cooked or canned. Some old-time cooks in the Middle East either peel cooked chickpeas or pass them through a food mill before using them. I find there is no need for this laborious extra step. I add to my hummus a little bit of cumin, which blends beautifully with the garlic and lemony flavor.
Continue reading for recipe.
Monday, August 5, 2013
Quinoa Avocado Tabbouleh
Lebanese tabbouleh salad originated in the mountain region of Zahlé, according to Claudia Roden’s The New Book of Middle Eastern Food. In the Bekáa Valley of Lebanon during the 1920s, open-air cafés served various local mezze to tourists from all over the Middle East. Tabbouleh became a regional favorite. Originally, it was made with lots of bulgur wheat and bits of fresh herbs. Over time the preference shifted, and bulgur became a side note as fresh green herbs took over. Today, tabbouleh is more often made with lots of fresh parsley and mint, with bulgur and other additions like tomatoes included as mere accents.
In this modern take on tabbouleh salad, I’ve lightened up on the chopped herbs and replaced bulgur with quinoa. Inspired by a salad I enjoyed at Le Pain Quotidien café, I’ve added ripe avocado and grated cucumber to the mix. Toasted pine nuts and a creamy dairy-free basil dressing take this salad from tasty to entrée-worthy. It’s a seriously satisfying meal, packed with protein, healthy fats and lots of flavor. It’s my new favorite lunch recipe!
Continue for recipe.
Monday, July 29, 2013
Two Hungry Jews Create ‘MrFoodPorn’ Site to Chronicle Eating Adventures
New foodie forum takes the trend of obsessive meal
documentation to the next level
By Romy Zipken for Jewcy
Like Justice Potter Stewart, I cannot definitively say what constitutes food porn, but I know it when I see it. Food porn isn’t erotic in a traditional romantic sense (Although South Park aired a 2010 episode about it in which Randy gets a little too involved with the Food Network). Rather, it’s the glamorization of food with images—and thanks to Instagram and other social networking platforms, it’s become a colloquial phrase. Capitalizing on that trend are two 24-year-old University of Colorado grads with their new website, MrFoodPorn.
Mixing photos and prose, Noah Rinsky and Josh Seigel use their site as a Manhattan-based forum for detailing their experiences with high-end food. Writing about expensive dining can quickly turn people off, so they opted for a silly name and quirky logo—a messy man all suited up, with a turkey leg in hand and stains dribbled on his lapel—to garner a wider audience. And to keep Mr FoodPorn from being too indulgent (the site’s ‘About Us’ section reads, “We’re devourers of all things fleshy, bready, and over indulgent; eaters to the first degree, scaling the highest meringue-mountains of wanton culinary delight!”), Rinsky and Seigel devoted a page to two hunger-fighting charities, Food Bank for New York City, and City Harvest. Giving back is important to them, and I’m sure it helps the conscience when you’re sinking your teeth into those sugar-cured bacon strips, which Rinsky won’t eat because he’s kosher. Instead, Seigel gives him play-by-plays of the bacon-wrapped matzo balls at Traif in Brooklyn.
They seek to add substance and creativity to the language around food porn. Instead of simply photographing your deep-fried dinner and adding a #nomnom hashtag, Rinsky and Seigel describe exceptional meals for their audience, who can read leisurely while salivating freely. They both work in the food industry, so they write about the culinary world beyond just the dining experience. In this excerpt, Mr FoodPorn describes his high-stress experience as a trainee waiter at the upscale Manhattan restaurant Eleven Madison Park.
Continue reading.
Like Justice Potter Stewart, I cannot definitively say what constitutes food porn, but I know it when I see it. Food porn isn’t erotic in a traditional romantic sense (Although South Park aired a 2010 episode about it in which Randy gets a little too involved with the Food Network). Rather, it’s the glamorization of food with images—and thanks to Instagram and other social networking platforms, it’s become a colloquial phrase. Capitalizing on that trend are two 24-year-old University of Colorado grads with their new website, MrFoodPorn.
Mixing photos and prose, Noah Rinsky and Josh Seigel use their site as a Manhattan-based forum for detailing their experiences with high-end food. Writing about expensive dining can quickly turn people off, so they opted for a silly name and quirky logo—a messy man all suited up, with a turkey leg in hand and stains dribbled on his lapel—to garner a wider audience. And to keep Mr FoodPorn from being too indulgent (the site’s ‘About Us’ section reads, “We’re devourers of all things fleshy, bready, and over indulgent; eaters to the first degree, scaling the highest meringue-mountains of wanton culinary delight!”), Rinsky and Seigel devoted a page to two hunger-fighting charities, Food Bank for New York City, and City Harvest. Giving back is important to them, and I’m sure it helps the conscience when you’re sinking your teeth into those sugar-cured bacon strips, which Rinsky won’t eat because he’s kosher. Instead, Seigel gives him play-by-plays of the bacon-wrapped matzo balls at Traif in Brooklyn.
They seek to add substance and creativity to the language around food porn. Instead of simply photographing your deep-fried dinner and adding a #nomnom hashtag, Rinsky and Seigel describe exceptional meals for their audience, who can read leisurely while salivating freely. They both work in the food industry, so they write about the culinary world beyond just the dining experience. In this excerpt, Mr FoodPorn describes his high-stress experience as a trainee waiter at the upscale Manhattan restaurant Eleven Madison Park.
Continue reading.
Monday, July 22, 2013
Two Tone Ice Cream Roll
I saw this recipe in the Family First and I knew I had to try it. I made some
adjustments and it came out delicious. The perfect ice cream dessert.
Ingredients
Crunch Topping:
1 box of Oreo Cookies
1/2 package white chocolate chips
8 oz nut crunch topping
Chocolate Ice Cream:
8 oz Richs Whip
3 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1 Tbsp coffee dissolved in 1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 Tbsp. Vanilla Sugar
1 Tbsp. cocoa
2 Tbsp. chocolate syrup
Vanilla Ice Cream:
8 oz Rich's Whip
3 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. Vanilla Sugar
Chocolate Glaze:
8 oz Rich's whip
2 bars pareve chocolate
Continue reading.
Ingredients
Crunch Topping:
1 box of Oreo Cookies
1/2 package white chocolate chips
8 oz nut crunch topping
Chocolate Ice Cream:
8 oz Richs Whip
3 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1 Tbsp coffee dissolved in 1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 Tbsp. Vanilla Sugar
1 Tbsp. cocoa
2 Tbsp. chocolate syrup
Vanilla Ice Cream:
8 oz Rich's Whip
3 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. Vanilla Sugar
Chocolate Glaze:
8 oz Rich's whip
2 bars pareve chocolate
Continue reading.
Monday, July 15, 2013
Chickpea Salad with Sun-Dried Tomatoes
A great recipe for the third meal on Shabbat.
By Tamar Fox
If you find yourself sitting down to eat at synagogue late Saturday afternoon,
don't expect much from the menu. Where you're treated to nice meals on Friday
night and Saturday for lunch, seudah shelishit, the third meal on Shabbat, is
likely to be a sad conglomeration of mayonnaise-heavy salads, greasy kugels, and
dry cakes.
According
to the Talmud (Shabbat 117b), one is required to eat three meals over the course
of Shabbat: One on Friday night, and two on Saturday. Unlike the first two
meals, seudah shelishit normally is not too elaborate. Because seudah shlishit
is eaten when Shabbat is winding down, it tends to be a sedate affair. When the
meal is over, it is customary to sing slow songs, or zemirot to show how sad we
are to see Shabbat go.
According to the Shulhan Arukh it is preferable to eat
bread at seudah shelishit, but if you are too full from lunch it is permissible
to eat a slice of cake or a piece of fruit instead (OH 291:7). Most people do
not say kiddush at seudah shlishit, but some do have the custom of saying just
the blessing over wine, without any of the preamble found in the special kiddush
liturgy for Friday night and Saturday afternoon.
So what can you do to
make this obligatory meal something to look forward to? Step 1: Put away the
mayonnaise. Just because the meal is typically heavy on the salads doesn't mean
that is has to be incredibly unhealthy. Here you'll find three recipes that are
perfect for any seudah shelishit. They call for little to no prep work before
Shabbat, and they yield delicious results without ever summoning a jar of
Miracle Whip.
Continue for recipe.
Monday, July 8, 2013
A Babka You Can Really Make
The Jewish coffee cake.
By Sheilah Kaufman
Ingredients
5-6 cups flour
1/2 oz
dried yeast (2 packets)
1 1/2 cups plus 2
Tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup water
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup
butter or margarine, melted
1 cup milk
1/4 cup canola oil
3
large eggs, slightly beaten
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup chocolate chips (optional)
1 large egg yolk mixed with 1 Tablespoon water (egg
wash)*
Continue reading for directions.
5-6 cups flour
1/2 oz dried yeast (2 packets)
1 1/2 cups plus 2 Tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup water
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup butter or margarine, melted
1 cup milk
1/4 cup canola oil
3 large eggs, slightly beaten
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup chocolate chips (optional)
1 large egg yolk mixed with 1 Tablespoon water (egg wash)*
Continue reading for directions.
Monday, July 1, 2013
Plum Crisp
This fruit dessert is a wonderful alternative to apple crisp. Made with fresh plums it is sure to wow your guests.
By Bookie727 from Cookkosher.com
Ingredients
2 lb plums
3/4 cup brown sugar
1 cup flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 egg
1/4 cup melted butter or margarine
Directions
Quarter plums and put in a 10 inch pan.
Sprinkle brown sugar onto plums. Mix flour, sugar, cinamon, and egg - then sprinkle over the plums.
Drizzle the plums with butter or margarine.
Bake at 375 for 45 minutes.
By Bookie727 from Cookkosher.com
Ingredients
2 lb plums
3/4 cup brown sugar
1 cup flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 egg
1/4 cup melted butter or margarine
Directions
Quarter plums and put in a 10 inch pan.
Sprinkle brown sugar onto plums. Mix flour, sugar, cinamon, and egg - then sprinkle over the plums.
Drizzle the plums with butter or margarine.
Bake at 375 for 45 minutes.
Monday, June 24, 2013
Gluten Free Mini Yogurt Muffins
I
like to say that baking is chemistry, and gluten-free baking is a science.
The secret to baking gluten-free goodies that are very close to the real thing lies in producing the “stretch factor” without gluten and using the right mix of gluten-free flours.
Creating the Illusion of Gluten
Gluten is the protein found in wheat, barley, rye and spelt that creates the “stretch factor” in batters and dough. Adding xanthan gum, guar gum, or psyllium husk to the mix helps create the same stretchy properties, and results in a chewy rather than crumbly baked good.
The Right Mix
In general, a mix of gluten-free flours will always be better than a single gluten-free flour. This is because no gluten-free flour can closely mirror glutinous all-purpose flour.
The gluten-free flours I use most frequently are sorghum, millet, brown rice, and tapioca. To add richness, I also sometimes add almond or hazelnut meal into the mix. A lot of my recipes have been developed through trial-and-error, but there are also many resources online for gluten-free baking.
I buy my own flours separately and combine them in different ratios depending on the recipe, but there are also some great gluten-free flour mixes out there: My favorite brand for all of my gluten-free flours is Bob’s Red Mill and Namaste is a close second. You can find gluten-free flours at most mainstream grocery stores these days, although it is usually cheaper to order them online.
Gluten-free baking is a bit more complex than glutinous baking, but I promise the results are so much better than store-bought gluten-free baked goods.
Continue reading.
The secret to baking gluten-free goodies that are very close to the real thing lies in producing the “stretch factor” without gluten and using the right mix of gluten-free flours.
Creating the Illusion of Gluten
Gluten is the protein found in wheat, barley, rye and spelt that creates the “stretch factor” in batters and dough. Adding xanthan gum, guar gum, or psyllium husk to the mix helps create the same stretchy properties, and results in a chewy rather than crumbly baked good.
The Right Mix
In general, a mix of gluten-free flours will always be better than a single gluten-free flour. This is because no gluten-free flour can closely mirror glutinous all-purpose flour.
The gluten-free flours I use most frequently are sorghum, millet, brown rice, and tapioca. To add richness, I also sometimes add almond or hazelnut meal into the mix. A lot of my recipes have been developed through trial-and-error, but there are also many resources online for gluten-free baking.
I buy my own flours separately and combine them in different ratios depending on the recipe, but there are also some great gluten-free flour mixes out there: My favorite brand for all of my gluten-free flours is Bob’s Red Mill and Namaste is a close second. You can find gluten-free flours at most mainstream grocery stores these days, although it is usually cheaper to order them online.
Gluten-free baking is a bit more complex than glutinous baking, but I promise the results are so much better than store-bought gluten-free baked goods.
Continue reading.
How Herring Brought My Father and Me Together—Once I Overcame My Gag Reflex
For 30 years, I turned up my nose at my dad’s
favorite fish. Then I tried it, and finally understood its briny appeal.
By Shira Klapper
I can’t remember the day I became aware of herring. It would be like remembering the moment I knew there were such things as trees or hands. Nor can I pinpoint the first time I took note of my father’s Saturday morning herring routine. But I do know that by the age of consciousness, I could expect Saturday mornings to unfold this way: My father would get dressed, go downstairs, open the refrigerator door, take out a shallow plastic container, and carefully open the lid to remove three or four pieces of pink, shimmering, oily herring, which would slide and wriggle onto his plate as if they’d just been plucked from chilly waters off Scandinavia. And just as consistent as my father’s routine was the way my mother, my siblings, and I would react: with a combination of horror, disgust, and mimed gestures of gagging.
In fact, so great was our disgust with the smelly, slithering fish, that for a while, we made my father eat the herring outside. In the New York winter. In the snow.
While herring never touched my lips for the first 30 years of my life, I knew things about herring, just like a child who grows up in the schmatte business knows a thing or two about exports and imports. For example, I knew that not all herring is created equal. In fact, herring is so varied that a man’s choice in herring is nothing less than a window to his soul, a way of showing the world whether he is a kind, philosophical man, or a bore who never once stopped to smell the flowers. In the class hierarchy of herring, I was taught that matjes, my family’s choice, was for the classy, discerning, sophisticated people; pickled was for people who, though good and upright, did not have the finest taste; and schmaltz—God forbid, schmaltz—was for the shtetl folks, the peasant people who temperamentally are simply not able to discriminate.
Continue reading.
Monday, June 17, 2013
Yerushalmi Kugel
The sweet and peppery flavor of Jerusalem Kugel
By Adeena Sussman
I can remember passing through the Hasidic neighborhood of Me'a She'arim in Jerusalem as a teenager and first seeing the mahogany-brown wedges of Yerushalmi (Jerusalem) Kugel.
Curious, I bought a slice of the still-warm Sabbath delicacy, and was hooked. Unlike any noodle pudding I had tasted before, this one featured a sophisticated interplay of sweetness and peppery bite, with a subtle toasty flavor thrown in for good measure.
The taste is surprisingly easy to recreate at home; all you need is a sure hand and the confidence to make a quick caramel of oil and sugar. Just when you think you've got your sugar dark enough, cook it a minute longer--you'll see and taste the difference in the results. If you burn the caramel, start over--the second time's often the charm.
Although many American adaptations call for baking the kugel in a regular casserole dish, I prefer to bake mine in a soup pot or Dutch oven with less surface area, which creates a higher, denser end result.
Continue reading for recipe.
Monday, June 10, 2013
Kufta Kebab
Grilled lamb skewers with deep roots in the Middle East.
By Adeena Sussman
Like so many foods on Israeli menus, kebab has its roots in the Arab kitchen. According to the Oxford Companion to Food, the name "shish kebab" is derived from an Arabic term for any type of fried meat. Only during Turkish dominance of the region did the term come to consistently refer to small chunks of meat (usually lamb) marinated, then skewered with vegetables and grilled.
The kebab that Israelis are familiar with is actually a variation of Kufta kebab, which comes from the Syrian term kooftah,
or pounded meat. This favorite appears in early cookbooks from the
region. Every country, from India to Afghanistan, has its own variation.
These lamb kebabs are easy to throw together, and they make a crowd-pleasing dish for a summer barbecue. Make sandwiches for your guests, or create a stuff-your-own-pita bar with fresh-baked pitas, chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, spicy harissa or schug (hot pepper sauce), and a drizzle of tahini.
Continue reading and for recipe.
These lamb kebabs are easy to throw together, and they make a crowd-pleasing dish for a summer barbecue. Make sandwiches for your guests, or create a stuff-your-own-pita bar with fresh-baked pitas, chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, spicy harissa or schug (hot pepper sauce), and a drizzle of tahini.
Continue reading and for recipe.
Monday, June 3, 2013
Talk of the Table: The Spicy Tale of India’s Jewish Cuisine
Palak paneer, chana masala and the egregiously treif-sounding butter chicken may not scream “Jewish” and were highly unlikely to grace your grandmother’s holiday table. But Jews have a rich history in India and an even richer cuisine to match.
For centuries, India has been home to Jews, primarily from three distinct groups: the Cochin Jews, the Bene Israel and the Baghdadi Jews. The Jews of Cochin, a port city on India’s southwestern coast, in the state of Kerala, have lived in India for at least a millennium. According to their tradition, they settled there after the destruction of the second temple and have been “augmented by waves of immigration from Yemen, from Turkey, from Egypt, from Syria, and even from Italy,” says Nathan Katz, professor of religious studies at Florida International University. They were an educated, prosperous bunch—some were involved in international trade, which often revolved around spices. “Kerala was always where spices were grown, so they had the freshest, most wonderful, pungent spicing in their food,” says Katz. Coconut and coconut oil were abundant and made their way into the Jewish dishes. A snack called bonda, a fritter coated with chickpea flour and then fried, comes in both savory and sweet varieties; in Cochin, a version made with coconut and raisins took the place of potato latkes during Hanukkah.
The Baghdadi Jews settled in Bombay and Calcutta when British rule began in the 19th century, coming from Iraq but also from Syria and elsewhere in the Middle East. Lured by economic opportunities—and by alarming anti-Semitism in some of their home countries—some found tremendous wealth as industrialists, real estate developers and manufacturers, an affluence reflected in their food. “Baghdadis had the greatest cuisine,” says Katz, describing it as “a wonderful combination of Middle Eastern food using local spices and ingredients. They love pulaus and biryanis—rice dishes that are very elaborate.” Aloo makalla—a potato dish that Gil Marks, author of Encyclopedia of Jewish Food, describes as “the most famous Jewish dish in India”—is the product of a combination of Arabic and Indian cooking practices common among Baghdadi Jews. Long-simmered in hot oil, whole potatoes form a hard exterior but stay soft inside, leading the flesh of the potato to “jump” out when cut into—the root of the dish’s nickname, “Jumping Potatoes.” A classic Friday night dish, the potatoes are often served with fenugreek chutney, murgi (spicy chicken), bhaji (curried potatoes and vegetables) and other vegetable and rice dishes. The generous use of sesame and nuts in Baghdadi cuisine also reflects Middle Eastern lineage, notes Shalva Weil, senior researcher at Hebrew University and editor of the book India’s Jewish Heritage.
Monday, May 27, 2013
7 Rules for Perfect Hummus
When was the last time you opened a tub of hummus and swooned? When was the last time a restaurant put a plate of hummus in front of you, and you said, “Oh my God.” ?
Most of the hummus recipes you come across on web sites, in print, on YouTube—they’re just wrong. Most of the hummus you buy in stores, or get served at restaurants—it’s just okay.
As hummus gets more and more popular, its manufacturers are aiming more and more for the middle. They are substituting variety for quality. You can get mediocre hummus in ten flavors (Avocado! Chipotle!), but try finding just one batch of perfect.
And perfect hummus does exist. Lina’s in the Old City of Jerusalem. Naji’s in Abu Ghosh. Light, almost fluffy, full of fresh flavor, creamy, warm. It’s not Middle East peanut butter.
I eat hummus every day. I make it about once a week. I’ve used recipes, I’ve created my own, I’ve tweaked like Steve Jobs (z”l) on a bender. Below you’ll find my basic recipe, which I’ve adapted from Erez Komaravsky’s, the Israeli chef and cooking teacher. (A story on Erez appears in this month’s Saveur, along with the recipe).
Whether you use it or find your own let these rules be your guide.
1. Do not used canned garbanzo beans. Ever. Take the canned beans in your cupboard and give them to a food bank.
2. Fresh ingredients are always better. Always. Fresh ground cumin seeds, fresh squeezed lemon juice, fresh garlic. Never used bottled lemon juice, though a touch of citric acid can help. Erez uses a mortar and pestle to grind his cumin. You’ll taste the difference.
3. Use good quality olive oil. Lots of it. In the hummus, as well as on top.
4. Don’t forget the pepper. I use Aleppo pepper, but hot paprika or ground chili works too.
5. Use water. This is key. Reserve the water you boiled the beans in. As you blend your hummus, add the water to achieve a creamy consistency. Use a bit more than you think is correct, because after it sits you’ll see the water is absorbed. If you’ve refrigerated your hummus, you can refresh it by whisking in some warm water.
Continue reading and for recipe.
Monday, May 20, 2013
Bronx Borscht
From the old world to the new, nothing 'beets' this classic soup
Usually, the sight of a root vegetable other than potatoes sends my kids running
and screaming from the kitchen. But the beet claims a special place in our house
whenever I make borscht.
Beets were a cheap commodity in Eastern Europe, so they caught on like wildfire in poor communities, both Jewish and Polish. Borscht (or borsch) is the generic name for a soup of Ukrainian origin that appears in hot and cold variations, but always with beets. Cold borscht is a true summertime soup, and I offer a thick, hearty version more like a Jewish take on gazpacho. Whatever kind of borscht you make, don't leave out the dill--a staple of Polish and Eastern Europe cooking.
A Generational Dish
My borscht obsession started with my first taste of my mother's soup, which her immigrant mother cooked and chilled every summer for her family of seven in a South Bronx tenement. Grandma Lena made a special Passover Borscht with russel (brine in Yiddish and Russian). She'd put the beets in wooden barrels with vinegar and water and let them sit for three to four weeks. Every few days, she'd skim off the fermented crust that would form at the top. My mother recalls this version being especially popular with some of their more (ahem) intemperate neighbors. But Grandma wasn't trying to get anyone drunk--she was just trying to get borscht to keep longer. Fermented borscht could keep for weeks or even months without refrigeration.
My grandmother made borscht in a pressure cooker, the old jiggle-top kind. If a food particle clogged the vent, or if she got distracted and forgot to turn down the heat (not an infrequent occurrence in a large household) the regulator blew off, taking the contents of the pot with it. The pink splotches on the ceiling are one of my mother's most vivid memories of her childhood kitchen.
Beets were a cheap commodity in Eastern Europe, so they caught on like wildfire in poor communities, both Jewish and Polish. Borscht (or borsch) is the generic name for a soup of Ukrainian origin that appears in hot and cold variations, but always with beets. Cold borscht is a true summertime soup, and I offer a thick, hearty version more like a Jewish take on gazpacho. Whatever kind of borscht you make, don't leave out the dill--a staple of Polish and Eastern Europe cooking.
A Generational Dish
My borscht obsession started with my first taste of my mother's soup, which her immigrant mother cooked and chilled every summer for her family of seven in a South Bronx tenement. Grandma Lena made a special Passover Borscht with russel (brine in Yiddish and Russian). She'd put the beets in wooden barrels with vinegar and water and let them sit for three to four weeks. Every few days, she'd skim off the fermented crust that would form at the top. My mother recalls this version being especially popular with some of their more (ahem) intemperate neighbors. But Grandma wasn't trying to get anyone drunk--she was just trying to get borscht to keep longer. Fermented borscht could keep for weeks or even months without refrigeration.
My grandmother made borscht in a pressure cooker, the old jiggle-top kind. If a food particle clogged the vent, or if she got distracted and forgot to turn down the heat (not an infrequent occurrence in a large household) the regulator blew off, taking the contents of the pot with it. The pink splotches on the ceiling are one of my mother's most vivid memories of her childhood kitchen.
Monday, May 13, 2013
How Do You Say "Cooking Show" in Yiddish?
Julia Child had her glass of wine, Emeril famously "kicks it up a notch," and viewers across Britain wish Jamie Oliver actually was a naked chef. Every great cooking show has a hook, and Est Gezunterheyt! ("Eat in Good Health!") is no exception. The brainchild of Rukhl Schaechter and Eve Jochnowitz, and produced by the Yiddish Daily Forverts, Est Gezunterheyt is a cooking show like no other. Mainly because, minus the subtitles, it’s all in mame-loshn.
Schaechter, an editor and writer, hails from a prominent family of Yiddish linguists, musicians, dramatists, and educators. Jochnowitz, a food ethnographer and blogger is more of a Yiddishist by choice.
In each episode, the co-hosts cook a traditional Jewish meal while serving up basic cooking tips (How should one cut an onion?), cultural context, and the occasional Yiddish song. Kasha varnishkes, sorrel soup, and potato kugel are all on the menu, and in one particularly delightful episode the duo make a Romanian cornmeal mush called mamelige and ultimately demonstrate a popcorn-and-milk parlor trick that defies the laws of fluid dynamics, and would make a perfect afternoon snack for any good farm girl, from Old World to New.
Monday, May 6, 2013
Chili With Cornbread Baked on Top
A recipe to bring to a new mom or dad.
This chili with cornbread is my favorite thing to make for parents of newborns. It's a delicious way of showing you care and are excited for and supportive of the new family.
The art of bringing food to a new mom (or dad) isn't just in choosing a recipe and making it. The whole point of bringing a meal is to be helpful and supportive, so you want to bring everything in a way that's as low maintenance as possible. I bring things in recyclable or disposable containers, and make it clear that I don't expect them to be returned. Often, I buy a new dish, bake the food in it, and give the meal and the dish to the family as a gift. When I bring the food I try to include a note about what's in everything, and I make an effort not to stay too long when I'm dropping off the food (unless I'm invited to stick around).
Continue for recipe.
Monday, April 29, 2013
Schnitzel: Israeli Cutlets
The ultimate comfort food
By Adeena Sussman
In all my years living in and visiting Israel, I never tired of the crisp, freshly breaded and fried cutlets known as schnitzel. Adapted by immigrants from the classic Viennese Wiener Schnitzel made with veal, the Israeli version originally featured turkey, which was much more plentiful at the onset of the Jewish State than beef, or even chicken.
In Israel you'll find a wide variety of schnitzel, adapted to adhere to familial or ethnic traditions and tastes. I like mine a bit spicy and add sesame seeds for a subtle nuttiness. I also prefer a coating of bread crumbs, which provide a crisper crust than matzah meal, which is denser and absorbs more oil.
The spices here are only a recommendation--it's fun to adjust the herbs to your liking. The smaller tenders make a great snack for kids, and any leftover schnitzel is superb as a day-after sandwich, stuffed into a pita with some salad and a drizzle of tahini.
Continue reading for recipe.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)